Iraq Travel: 100 Questions Answered based on NeemTime research
🛑 Safety & Logistics
General Safety
Is it safe to travel to Iraq right now?
A: Official government advisories (like the US, UK, and Australia) generally advise against all travel due to volatile security, terrorism, and kidnapping risk. However, many recent tourists on forums report feeling “perfectly safe” and finding the people incredibly welcoming, especially in major cities and the Kurdistan Region (KRI). The general consensus is that stability has significantly improved since 2017.
How safe is Federal Iraq (Baghdad, Babylon, the South) compared to Iraqi Kurdistan (Erbil, Sulaymaniyah)?
A: The KRI (Kurdistan) is generally considered the safest and most stable part of Iraq, with more established tourism infrastructure. Federal Iraq has improved but is viewed as slightly more unpredictable, with more military/militia checkpoints.
Are there areas I should absolutely avoid?
A: Yes. Avoid border areas with Syria, Turkey, and Iran. Also, parts of Anbar, Ninewa, Salah al-Din, Diyala, and Kirkuk provinces may be more volatile.
Is it safe to walk around alone?
A: Many solo travelers report feeling safe in cities like Baghdad and Erbil, with a “nonexistent risk” of being mugged. However, being aware of your surroundings, especially at night, is always advised.
What’s the biggest safety concern for a tourist?
A: The main risks cited by official bodies are terrorism, kidnapping, and civil unrest/protests. For tourists, the frequent, time-consuming security checkpoints and potential for unanticipated road closures can be the most common issue.
Are there many military checkpoints?
A: Yes, especially between cities and entering major locations in Federal Iraq. You may be asked to show your passport and answer questions.
Do I need a local guide?
A: Highly recommended, especially in Federal Iraq and less-touristed areas. A guide is invaluable for navigating checkpoints, translation, and ensuring your safety and comfort.
Will my government’s “Do Not Travel” warning void my travel insurance?
A: Very likely. Standard travel insurance is often invalidated if you travel against official government advice. You will likely need to purchase specialist high-risk travel insurance.
What should I do if a protest breaks out?
A: Immediately leave the area. Protests can start suddenly and turn violent. Monitor local media and follow the advice of your guide or hotel staff.
Is there a threat of kidnapping?
A: Official advisories state a high risk. While rare for Western tourists, it’s why having a vetted guide/driver and a contingency plan is crucial.
Visas & Entry
Do I need a visa for Federal Iraq?
A: Yes. Many nationalities (including EU, US, UK, Canada, Australia) are eligible for a Visa On Arrival (VOA) or a pre-arranged e-visa at Baghdad or Basra International Airports. It is essential to check the latest policy for your specific nationality before you go.
Do I need a separate visa for Iraqi Kurdistan (KRI)?
A: The visa on arrival issued in Federal Iraq (e.g., Baghdad) is typically valid for the KRI. However, a visa/VOA obtained only in the KRI (e.g., Erbil) is NOT valid for Federal Iraq.
What is the visa process like at Baghdad airport?
A: You fill out a form, wait about 10 minutes for processing, and pay the fee (around $75-$77 USD cash plus a processing fee). Some travelers report being asked for a hotel reservation.
Can I use an Israeli stamp in my passport?
A: It is strongly advised not to have any trace of travel to Israel in your passport when entering Federal Iraq. It may be less of an issue in the KRI, but caution is paramount.
What is the cost of the visa on arrival?
A: Often around $77 USD (75 for the visa, plus a small fee). Cash is typically required.
Money & Costs
What is the local currency?
A: The Iraqi Dinar (IQD).
Can I use US Dollars?
A: Yes, USD is widely accepted in major cities, but you’ll generally get a better price using local currency (IQD).
Are ATMs widely available?
A: Available in major cities like Baghdad and Erbil, but withdrawing money can sometimes be unreliable or complicated. Always carry enough cash.
How much should I budget per day?
A: Excluding tours, many travelers report that $100-$200 USD per day is a generous budget, as food and local transportation are quite cheap.
Is haggling common?
A: Yes, particularly in markets and with independent taxi drivers.
Transportation
How do I travel between cities (e.g., Baghdad to Erbil)?
A: Shared taxis or minibuses are the most common and affordable way for locals and budget travelers. You can find them at designated taxi stations called “garages.” Domestic flights are also an option.
Are there ride-sharing apps?
A: Yes, local apps like Careem (especially in Baghdad and Erbil) and possibly others are available and recommended to avoid haggling with street taxis.
Is the road travel safe?
A: Road conditions can be poor, and traffic laws are often ignored. Security-wise, there are many checkpoints and potential for unpredictable closures, which is why a local driver/guide is often preferred.
Is it possible to rent a car?
A: Not recommended for foreigners due to poor road safety, aggressive driving, and the complexity of navigating checkpoints without a local.
How are the domestic flights?
A: Reliable and efficient, especially between Baghdad and Erbil. Recommended for saving time and avoiding long road trips with checkpoints.
🗺️ Destinations & Experiences
Federal Iraq (South)
What is the must-see in Baghdad?
A: Al-Mutanabbi Street (the famous book market), the National Museum of Iraq, and the Martyr Monument (Al-Shaheed Monument).
Are the holy cities of Karbala and Najaf open to non-Muslim tourists?
A: Yes, but be respectful and dress very modestly (women will be required to wear a full abaya/chador). Najaf is home to the Imam Ali Shrine and the world’s largest cemetery, Wadi Al-Salam.
Can I visit the ruins of Babylon?
A: Yes, and it’s highly recommended. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You might even find Saddam Hussein’s abandoned palace nearby.
What is the Ziggurat of Ur?
A: An enormous ancient Sumerian temple structure in the south, one of the most important archaeological sites in the world.
What are the Iraqi Marshes?
A: A vast wetland ecosystem in Southern Iraq (Ahwar of Southern Iraq, a UNESCO site), offering boat trips to see the unique Marsh Arabs and their traditional reed houses (mudhif).
Is it possible to visit Mosul?
A: Yes, but it’s a city still recovering from war. Travelers have visited, often with a guide, to see the reconstruction and historical sites. It’s only about 2 hours from Erbil.
What are the main cultural differences between the North (Kurdish) and the South (Federal)?
A: The North is mountainous, culturally Kurdish (a distinct language/culture), and generally more liberal/developed for tourism. The South is Arabic, has a rich Islamic history (holy sites), and is more conservative.
Iraqi Kurdistan (North)
What is the main highlight of Erbil?
A: The Erbil Citadel, one of the oldest continually inhabited settlements in the world, is the heart of the city and a UNESCO site.
What are some nature spots in the KRI?
A: The mountains offer beautiful scenery, waterfalls, and hiking. Destinations include Gali Ali Beg waterfall, Rawanduz, and Amedi.
Is it safe to go hiking in the mountains?
A: Generally yes, but stick to well-known areas and consider a local guide. Avoid areas near the Iranian and Turkish borders where there are military operations.
Food & Drink
What is the national dish?
A: Probably Masgouf (grilled carp, typically found along the Tigris river) or Dolma (stuffed vegetables).
Is alcohol available?
A: Yes, but it is not openly consumed in public. There are bottle shops, and some upscale hotels in Baghdad and Erbil have bars. It is generally banned or heavily frowned upon in more religious cities.
What is the street food like?
A: Delicious and very cheap! Expect lots of kebabs, Quzi (slow-cooked lamb), and Kleicha (cookies).
Will I be offered tea a lot?
A: Yes! Hospitality is a huge part of Iraqi culture. Expect to be invited for tea (or even a meal) by locals frequently. Accepting is highly encouraged.
💬 Culture & Etiquette
Are Iraqis hospitable to foreigners?
A: Incredibly so. Tourists frequently report overwhelming kindness, helpfulness, and curiosity from locals, often being invited for tea or food.
How should women dress?
A: Modestly. Loose-fitting clothes that cover the shoulders and knees are standard. In holy cities (Najaf, Karbala), a headscarf is mandatory, and women are often given an abaya to wear. In Erbil/Kurdistan, dress codes can be more relaxed.
How should men dress?
A: Long trousers and covered shoulders are best. Shorts are rare outside of specific tourist hotels or private settings.
Is English widely spoken?
A: Not widely, outside of the tourism industry (guides, hotels) in major cities. Learning a few basic phrases in Arabic (or Kurdish in the North) is highly recommended.
Is photography restricted?
A: You can take photos of most sights. The two main “no-nos” are: military/security checkpoints and inside sensitive holy sites/mosques (ask first). Be respectful if photographing people and always ask permission.
What is the local language in Federal Iraq?
A: Iraqi Arabic.
What is the local language in Iraqi Kurdistan?
A: Kurdish.
Is it appropriate to discuss politics or the war?
A: Approach with sensitivity. Locals may bring it up, and they are generally happy to discuss it, but it’s best to let them lead the conversation and listen respectfully.
Should I expect to stand out as a Western foreigner?
A: Yes, especially outside of Erbil and Baghdad. You will definitely draw attention, but usually out of friendly curiosity and hospitality, not hostility.
📝 Practicalities & Health
What is the best time of year to visit?
A: Spring (March to May) and Autumn (September to November). The weather is warm and dry.
How hot does the summer get?
A: Extremely hot. Temperatures in the summer (Late May to early September) can soar well over $40^{\circ}\text{C}$ ($104^{\circ}\text{F}$).
What is the winter like?
A: Cool, with rain. Snowfall is common in the northern mountains of the KRI.
Should I book a hotel in advance?
A: Recommended, especially for the first night. You may be asked for a reservation at the airport.
Is Wi-Fi/Internet access good?
A: Decent in major cities and hotels. Power outages can be an issue, especially in summer.
Should I buy a local SIM card?
A: Yes, highly recommended. Carriers like Asiacell or Zain are often used. Data is relatively cheap.
Are credit cards accepted?
A: Only at major international hotels, some upscale restaurants, and large stores. Cash is king everywhere else.
Do I need to worry about water quality?
A: Only drink bottled water. Avoid tap water and ice unless in a reputable establishment.
Are there any necessary vaccinations?
A: Consult your doctor, but standard shots like Hepatitis A & B and Typhoid are often recommended.
Is it possible to travel with a tour group?
A: Yes, several specialist tour companies run trips to both Federal Iraq and the KRI. This is the safest and most convenient option.
What is the local power plug type?
A: Predominantly Type C, D, and G. A universal adapter is best.
Is it necessary to learn Arabic or Kurdish?
A: Basic phrases are incredibly helpful for goodwill and navigating taxis/markets outside of the tourist bubble.
🌐 Deeper Dive & Specifics
Historical & Archaeological
Where is the “Cradle of Civilization?”
A: Ancient Mesopotamia, which is largely modern-day Iraq, between the Tigris and Euphrates rivers.
Can I visit the site of Ancient Nineveh?
A: Yes, it is near Mosul. Check the current security situation before planning a visit.
What is left of the city of Ctesiphon?
A: The massive Taq Kasra, the remains of a Sassanian arch, which is one of the most recognizable ancient monuments.
Are all the historical artifacts in the National Museum originals?
A: The museum houses many originals, but many priceless artifacts were looted after the 2003 invasion, with some recovered and some still missing.
Are there any Christian sites to visit?
A: Yes, particularly in the Nineveh Plains and the KRI. The ancient Assyrian Christian community has many historical churches and monasteries.
Can I see any remains of Saddam Hussein’s palaces?
A: Yes, the abandoned palace in Babylon is one of the most notable. Others have been repurposed by militias or the government.
Etiquette Deep Dive
Is it customary to tip?
A: Tipping (baksheesh) is appreciated, especially for drivers, hotel staff, and anyone who goes out of their way to help you.
What should I do if a local invites me into their home?
A: If you feel safe, accept! It is a great honor and a unique cultural experience. Bring a small gift (sweets, nuts) if you can.
Is it OK to refuse food or drink?
A: It’s polite to accept at least a little bit. Gently refusing or saying you are full multiple times will usually be accepted.
Should I use my left hand?
A: No, never. The left hand is considered unclean. Use your right hand for greetings, eating, and passing objects.
Safety Scenarios
What should I do if stopped by a militia checkpoint (non-government)?
A: Be polite, calm, and follow all instructions. Your local guide/driver should handle the interaction.
How reliable is the police?
A: In major cities, they are generally helpful and present. Tourist police are more common in Erbil.
Do I need to register with my embassy/consulate?
A: Highly recommended (e.g., using the US STEP program) so your government can contact you in an emergency.
Is it better to travel independently or on a tour?
A: An organized tour offers maximum safety and convenience. Independent travel is possible but requires a much higher level of patience, research, and risk tolerance.
Technology & Communication
Are there any social media restrictions?
A: Internet services (including social media) can be interrupted or restricted during times of unrest or protests.
Do I need a VPN?
A: While not essential, a VPN can be useful for accessing content or services that may be restricted, and for general security.
Are international calls expensive?
A: Using a local SIM card with a good data plan and apps like WhatsApp is the most economical way to communicate internationally.
Are power banks essential?
A: Yes, due to potential power outages, a fully charged power bank is very useful.
Health & Weather
Are there good hospitals in Iraq?
A: Private hospitals in Baghdad and Erbil offer better care than public ones. Emergency services are generally limited outside the major centers.
What is the biggest health risk?
A: The extreme summer heat can be dangerous. Stay hydrated, especially in the south.
Should I bring my own medicine?
A: Bring a supply of any prescription and common over-the-counter medications, as availability can be unpredictable.
Is sand/dust a common problem?
A: Yes, sand and dust storms (haboobs) are frequent, especially outside the rainy seasons. They can cause breathing difficulties.
Traveling with Identity
Will I be treated differently as an American/Westerner?
A: You will draw attention, but the prevailing sentiment reported by tourists is one of overwhelming kindness and hospitality. Locals generally separate the individual traveler from their government’s actions.
Is Iraq safe for female solo travelers?
A: Many women have traveled safely, but it is challenging due to the conservative culture. A local guide or traveling with a group is highly recommended for comfort and safety.
Is it safe for LGBTQ+ travelers?
A: No, legal and social protection for LGBTQ+ persons is virtually nonexistent. Public displays of affection are highly discouraged for everyone, and it is strongly advised to be discreet.
General Advice
What is one thing I must pack?
A: A printed copy of all your travel documents (passport/visa scans, hotel bookings) to help with the frequent checkpoints.
What is the most unique sight?
A: The ancient ruins of Ur, the Ziggurat, is often described as profoundly moving and unique.
Is it expensive to stay in nice hotels?
A: International-standard hotels in Baghdad and Erbil can be expensive (upwards of $100-$150 USD/night). Cheaper, local guesthouses and hotels are readily available.
Are there many tourists?
A: Compared to other destinations, no. Iraq is a very niche, off-the-beaten-path destination, so expect few other non-local tourists.
Can I use my credit card to pay for the visa?
A: No, the visa is almost always paid for in cash (USD).
💡 Quick-Fire FAQs
Can I drink the tap water?
A: No, stick to bottled water.
Is pork available?
A: Extremely rare, given the predominantly Muslim population.
Can I visit the shrine of Imam Husayn in Karbala?
A: Yes, with respectful dress and conduct.
What is Nowruz?
A: The Persian New Year/Spring Equinox, celebrated enthusiastically in the KRI (Kurdistan) in March.
Are there deserts in Iraq?
A: Yes, large parts of Federal Iraq are desert and flatland.
Do locals take selfies with tourists?
A: Very often! Tourists report being stopped for photos frequently.
What currency is preferred for tipping?
A: Iraqi Dinars (IQD) or small USD bills.
Do I need a letter of invitation?
A: Not for VOA-eligible nationalities, but some countries may still require it, so always check with the nearest embassy.
Is public transportation good in Baghdad?
A: Limited; relying on taxis or Careem is best.
What is the most important piece of advice from travelers?
A: Go with an open mind and embrace the incredible hospitality. The people are the highlight of the trip.